December 2, 2017

Garden Eden on Earth

I have not blogged for a long time and much has happened since. For this blog, the biggest change is that I am a parent now - still happily settled in Nairobi, Kenya.

Kenya's fruit & veggies are in season most year around. I am lucky to have direct access to world quality certified organic food straight from the farm. 

The much dreaded introduction of solids to little ones, is literally a child's play here. Following the many popular baby weaning recipe books is a delight as everything suggested is available and in season. I don't even have to freeze and cook ahead - yet!

I have been following one of Annabel Karmel's many baby food recipe books, but have also recently stumbled upon Ahmed's Indian Super Meals for babies. Luckily, Kenya is also just as rich in cereals as she is in her veggies and fruits. Wimbi (red finger millet), is known as Nachni or Rage in Hindi, and a very popular and nutritious cereal in Kenya and India. 

Being a young parent in Kenya has its ups and downs. Help & support is very family and community lead, however, feeding is hopefully going to be a small challenge in this journey. 

July 15, 2013

WORKING IN KENYA: Permits and Passes

Immigration laws are the least favorite adjustment of mine when moving countries, but one of the first you should wrap your mind around nevertheless. Kenyan law is not very straight forward, especially since the recent elections. Only yesterday, I was told there is a new type of work permit for dependent pass holders. I have tried to dissect my application process; below a few things required to work and live in Kenya. 

Alien Card - everyone staying longer than 90 days in Kenya needs to register and apply for an Alien card, which is something like an ID card for foreign nationals in Kenya. The process takes about 5-6 weeks in normal circumstances. Along with your application, you need to hand in passport sized photographs, copy of your passport and get your fingerprints taken at the Immigration Office in Nyayo House

There are two kind of registration types - permits and passes. If you are not working, i.e. a student, a dependent spouse or are working in Kenya for less than 3 months you apply for a pass. If you have any of these passes you don't need a visa to re-enter Kenya should you travel. However, you need a re-entry pass stamp in your passport. Ultimately, you should have two stamps in your passport, your pass and re-entry, or else you'll have to purchase a visa to re-enter Kenya.

If you plan to work in Kenya, you need to apply for a work permit. Needless to say, there are many types of permits. Some are easier to obtain and some require more bureaucratic work. In most cases, expats relocating to Kenya come with a job prospect and their work permits are applied for by employers. If you want to register your own company or consultancy, you need to apply for it yourself, though. 

Finally, you need a PIN number from the KRA (Kenya Revenue Authority), which is required to open bank accounts, import and own a car and buy or rent property. The PIN is essentially a tax registration number. 

July 6, 2013

Road Trip: Break at Makindu Gurdwara

Makindu Gurdwara
Makindu is probably not your average tourist destination, but I assure you it will after your first visit. About 170 km from Nairobi on the highway to Mombasa, Makindu is known for its oldest Sikh Temple in Kenya. It was built by the first Indian settlers who came to help construct the railways in 1926. In fact, Makindu was first established in the early 20th Century as a base for railway workers. To read more on the history, check out Dauti Kahura's article written for The Standard and republished here.

Today, people of all faiths and none are welcome to stop by and enjoy the daily langar - food is served 24h and travelers are welcomed at all times. Tourists can stay up to two days at the temple accommodations, too, should they want to rest on their way. Many stop frequently on their way to the game parks Tsavo and Amboseli, as well as Mombasa. The temple only accepts donations for their services. 

Make sure to stop at Makindu Gurdwara on your next trip. It's just five minutes passed Hunter's Lodge, where most travelers break for a coffee. Skip that and experience the blissful atmosphere at Makindu Gurdwara!

June 28, 2013

DRIVING IN KENYA: 5 TIPS TO STAY SAFE AND CARRY ON

When you move to a new country, mobility is very important. Especially in the initial stages when you try to get your bearings, find a new grocery vendor, a tailor, a mechanic – the list is endless. If you don’t want to take a Matatu (mini vans used for public transport) you need a car to get around in Nairobi.
Depending on where you live, navigating through Nairobi’s roads can be quite a challenge. I’ve been driving here for five months and here’s what I suggest to stay safe and carry on:


  1. Police: You will come across traffic police at every junction in Nairobi. Some, it feels, are just on the look out to fine you and may even stop you for no apparent reason. Avoid any eye contact with the police and drive past. If you don’t look they won’t stop you – it’s been working for me so far!
  2. Matatus: Opinions are divided on Matutus. All drivers hate them and most people fight them. I say, smile and give way and they won’t do a thing. No, seriously. Matatu drivers do not indicate or care for traffic rules. In fact. some even enjoy cutting lanes and harassing other drivers. You are better off to let them go.
  3. Traffic Rules: Although, Nairobi’s infrastructure is improving and the highways in Kenya are in fairly good condition I can’t help the feeling that some drivers are not aware of traffic rules. There are very few sign posts (I was told they get stolen, so the councils don’t bothers putting them up) to guide the drivers. If you’ve never been on a highway before, getting on and off one is not that simple as we may think. There are always buses getting off the highway on a entry lane and using the exit lanes to come back on. Be watchful and assume not everyone is as aware of common sense traffic rules as you are.
  4. Know Your Route: You don’t want to get lost in Nairobi when you are on your own! Taking the wrong turning can lead you to areas you wouldn’t want to go to. I use Google Maps a lot to find my way in Nairobi, but I make sure I know where I am going, where the parking is and if it is safe to go there. Check that your route is safe. Safety on the roads includes bad lighting at night, potholes and sharp turnings. Google’s shortest route may not be the best option.
  5. Enjoy: Be confident and enjoy driving. Apart from areas where parking is scarce, I don’t think you require a driver in Nairobi. I haven’t come across any aggressive driving and the roads are well planned. Peak hour traffic is legendary, but something that needs to be experienced once in a while.

June 26, 2013

RIFT VALLEY DAY TRIP: MT. SUSWA CRATERS AND CAVES

I recently went on a one-day trip with a friend. We packed a picnic and went off in a 4×4 towards Mt Suswa, just about 50 km from Nairobi as the crow flies and about 120 km on road. The roads to the bottom of the mountain were brilliant as most highways in Kenya are. They may be single lane, but we managed to cover 90 km within an hour driving fairly slow. Driving up the mountain towards the outer crater took another hour and the dirt roads are very rocky and in some parts almost non existent.

Mt Suswa is inhabited by Maasai tribes, who administer the Mt Suswa Conservancy. The small income the conservancy makes through tourism goes towards building community projects. In return, the locals provide guides to accompany visitors on their hikes and trip to the caves. They even provide askaris if you plan to camp at their campsite overnight.

The main attraction of Mt Suswa is the double crater of this inactive volcano that is separated by a moat like valley. Although you can access the inner island, tourists generally hike around the outer ring towards the peak of Mt Suswa.

We drove our car all the way to the edges of the outer crater near the campsite. The view is breathtaking as is the chilly gush of wind as you inch your way closer to the crater. 




It is recommended to contact a guide before your trip as you can only enter certain parts of Mt Suswa Conservancy with a Maasai guide. I called the conservancy a few days ahead and got in touch with Mzee Jeremiah, who
 is a great guide. He can be reached through the Mt Suswa Conservancy Trust or on +254-712-244583. He took us around the outer ring half way towards the smaller peak of Mt Suswa. We were totally out of breath, while he just walked on and on and on like a trooper! His knowledge of Mt Suswa is great and he came armed with maps and images and starts every trip with a small history session of the area. 



We went through one of the many caves at the eastern edge of the crater, where we visited the Baboon parliament, the bat caves and the leopard hideout. In fact, the BBC filmed in the Mt Suswa caves to document the Baboon parliament. The documentary 'The Great Rift: Africa's Wild Heart' was first broadcast in 2010 and Mzee Jeremiah was interviewed for it. Since then, the guided tours have become a lot more informative, too.

All in all, hiking in Mt Suswa and visiting the caves turned out to be great day out that will be repeated soon enough!

A few blogs with directions and further information on Mt Suswa and Mt Suswa Conservancy are listed below. I particularly like Jambo Nairobi with added Matatu directions – brilliant!